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Old 08-28-2010, 05:27 PM
scottn3 scottn3 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Default Changing Rear Engine Mount DIY

I changed my rear mount a few days ago and thought it would be nice to post the procedure for anyone else thinking about doing the job. It was not easy but with the proper tools and 2 sets of hands, it is a managable job. Here is what you will need:

- a strong 1/2" impact wrench (IR 231C)
- a variety of socket extensions and adapters (4" regular and 8" wobble a minimum)
- 6 point metric socket set up to size 17mm - deep well and regular
- pliers and channel locks to remove/install hose clips
- 2 floor jacks, one to elevate car and 1 to raise transmission
- yourself and 1 helper

Step 1: take pictures of behind the engine area so that you can remember how the hoses are installed.

Step 2: remove all hoses from behind the engine. Some of these are heater hoses and some are vacuum lines. Remove as many as you can so that the entire area behind the engine is accessible.

Step 3: remove the 2 bolts holding on the engine mount cover. These are 17mm bolts and are very tight. I made the mistake of trying to use a U-joint on these and nearly stripped out the bolt. The best way is to use a deep (or regular) socket with a 4" extension on the impact gun. Just make sure you are straight on all the way. Once you have these bolts off, the hard part is out of the way.

Step 4: elevate the vehicle with jacks and stands. From below the car, wrestle the cover off of the mount.

Step 5: loosen the 4 bolts on the engine mount. This is where you'll need a friend to help you - have them operate the impact gun from the top while you guide the socket onto the bolts from the underside. I used an 8" wobble extension on this and it came in real handy. Again, make sure the socket is seated all the way on the bolts before your buddy hits it with the gun.

Step 6: use a bottle jack on the bottom side of the transmission to take the weight off of the rear mount

Step 7: remove the one horizontal bolt from the engine mount. This is the last thing holding on the mount.

Step 8: continue to raise the transmission with the bottle jack until the engine mount is free. Remove the old mount and install the new one. Put it all back together in reverse order.

Sorry, no pics, but there's not much to take a picture of.

I got my engine mount off of eBay from Bell Honda for about $385.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:58 PM
Dirkdaddy's Avatar
Dirkdaddy Dirkdaddy is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 7
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Good post. I had mine done at 58k by dealer on Honda's dime...but would have done it myself otherwise. I'm wondering if my front mount is also bad...get a vibration if I pull away at about 1400 rpm, or you can hold brake and hit throttle to get it to 1400 rpm (carefully, on a closed course, by a professional of course). Does yours do this too? Mine shakes the wheel.
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:05 AM
genebaker genebaker is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1

How did you get the dealer to pick up the tab? I'm a little frustrated with this expensive part failing at 65k miles. My dealer offered to waive the labor but still wants to stick me with a bill of about $500 to pay for the part.
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