DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey FRONT Brake - Honda Odyssey Owners Club Forum
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  #1  
Old 11-14-2010, 09:13 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Default DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey FRONT Brake

DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey Front Brake Rotor

I have warped rotors at 30K miles, so just re-surfaced them. Anyway, I wrote a quick DIY for those who need it.

NOTE:
- Ideally the van should be cleaned with water the day before so all winter salt, sand are washed off to make the job easier.
- Wheel Nut: 22-mm
- Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolts: 19-mm; torque = 101 ft-lb (this torque is a bit on the high side, see my tip later)
- Brake Caliper Sliding Mounting Bolts: 14-mm; torque = 37 ft-lb.

- A Punch Set (aka Impact Driver) is also useful because it is very easy to round off these bolts without this tool. Basically this is a punch tool with a “twisting” motion. Place the Phillips #3 head on the rotor screw. Hammer the Punch Tools a few times. This will keep the Phillips head tight on the screw and at the same time the tool unscrews it counter-clockwise (make sure you check the tool before using it. The tool should have “R” and “L” markings on it. Press it down on the ground, the tip should twist CCW: this is what you want). Your local Autoparts store or Sears should carry this tool.

- You need 2 bolts to extract the rotor because it is likely rusted it in. If my measurement is correct, then the extractor bolt should be M8 x 1.25 x 25 (M8 = diameter is 8 mm; 1.25 = distance between adjacent threads is 1.25 mm; 25 = length is 25 mm). These bolts are cheap at hardware store.

PROCEDURE:

1. Apply Parking Brake. Loosen wheel nuts but do not remove them yet.

2. Jack up the van, place jackstand under the subframe (where the control arm is attached to the subframe; jackstand under subframe, [u[not[/u] under control arm. See pic).

3. Remove wheel and set under the van for added safety. See pic.

4. The inside view of the wheel showing both the Brake Caliper Bracket 19-mm bolts and the Brake Caliper Sliding 14-mm bolts.

5. Remove the Brake Caliper Bracket 19-mm bolts and hang the caliper using solid electrical wire or metal coat hanger) to prevent strain on the brake hose.

6. Note the two (2) Rotor Screws. They are Phillips #3. Just in case you round it off, local Honda dealer sells these rotor screws for $1.00/each.

7. Now use the Impact Driver to remove the two (2) Rotor Screws.
If they don't come out, you can drill them out as well.
This is why it is a good idea to have these spare bolts ready.

8. Then tap the rotor with a rubber hammer, if it comes off then fine. If not, use the extractor bolts (M8 x 1.25 x 25) to remove the rotors.
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2010, 09:19 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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RE-INSTALL TIPS:

1. Clean mating surfaces before re-installation. Use very fine sand paper to clean it. This means:

---> a. The surface between the Hub and INNER side of the rotor where they mate together.
---> b. The surface between the OUTER side of the rotor and the INNER side of the wheel where they mate together.
---> c. The surface between Brake Caliper and Steering Knuckle.

2. Apply a small amount of anti-seize at the hub ring to avoid bonding between the hub and rotor.

3. Apply a small amount of anti-seize at the rotor ring to avoid bonding between the rotor and the wheel.

4. Don’t forget to torque the 19-mm bolts. From a practical standpoint, it is very difficult, if not impossible to fit a torque wrench in the tight space of the wheel well. What I have done in 25 years: tighten the 19-m bolts by hand and the wrench until it stops. Place the 19-mm wrench let’s say at 1 o’clock position. Use a Rubber Hammer and tap the wrench Counter-clocwise (viewed from outside looking in the wheel well) until it sits at 11 o’clock position. Basically [b]60-degree tightening[b]. This has worked well for me for 25 years.

5. PS: if you want to change ONLY the brake pads, then
- Check the Brake Reservoir to be sure brake fluid is at "Min" level because it will rise when the caliper pistons are compressed.
- Undo the Sliding 14-mm bolts. Remove the Sliding Caliper. Take 1 minute to study the anatomy, it is very easy. Basically Brake pads held by hardware clips. Removing the pads is very easy. Then using a pair of pliers of C-arm and gently press the pistons back in. Check the sliding pin rubber boot for any tear etc.
- Install new pads and re-install Sliding Caliper.

===> This Step is VERY IMPORTANT: With engine OFF, Gently apply the brake pedal a few times until the pads are in contact with the rotor. If you fail to do this, when you back your van out of the garage, you will have no braking effect at all! This is because you need to seat the brake pads first.

Then go for a test drive. As you can see, changing brake pads is straightforward business.

PS: If you don't want to hang the brake caliper with wire, then use a Bucket (upside down). The Bucket fits perfectly in that wheel well.
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:24 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Another issue I forgot to mention is rotor/pad brand names:

Honda OEM Rotor: PN 45251-SHJ-A00 ---> $110 at dealer. I think OEM is "Mountain" Brand but it has a history of warping.

Alternatives that I use:

- I use Autozone Duralast Rotor PN 31368 ---> $39/each at Autozone with 2-year-warranty.
- I also use Autozone Duralast Brake Pads $40/set, life-time warranty: when it wears down, bring them in for a new brake pad set for free.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:57 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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DIY: How to drill stuck rotor screw

The following is a generic procedure for any rotors with stuck rotor screw. I use Mazda6 rotor (almost identical setup as Honda) for illustration purpose.

NOTE:

1- Honda screw is M6 thread type. The head widest part is 12 mm. An alternative is using "McMaster-Carr" screw with Allen head instead of Phillips as Allen head has less chance of stripping. FYI: BMW uses Allen head.

2- Thread is 6mm, Head is 12mm, so use a 9mm or 11/32" drill bit. The rotor screw is made from soft metal, so when drilling it out, the moment you hit the rotor (which is made from much harder metal), you will hear a different sound/feel etc. ---> then stop drilling.

By now, you should have a "ring" at the tip of your drill bit.

3. Once the rotor is off (if rotor is stuck, use extractor bolts as mentioned on the 1st page of this thread to remove the rotor). Then remove the remaining part of the rotor screw with your fingers or vice-grip.

Pretty simple, isn't it?
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:19 AM
DKumarm3 DKumarm3 is offline
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Hi - Any feedback on the pads & rotors.
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:36 PM
msquared msquared is offline
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Just a quick additonal bit of info for the two rotor screws. If you happen to have an power impact driver around - not an impact wrench, but a hex-shank driver that is commonly used to drive wood screws for framing and decks and such - that will work wonders. I couldn't budge these screws by hand, even using good Snap-On screwdrivers. But my cordless impact driver zipped them off like it was nothing, and with zero damage to the screws.

Honestly these screws are almost certainly used only for easy of assembly in the plant - the rotors would otherwise be somewhat floppy with no wheels installed and brake pads not yet seated on the them. They are not doing anything functional once the wheels are installed with lug nuts torqued (the lug nut clamping force holds the rotors on, not these little screws), so I'm sure they could be left off when you're reassembling things.

Last edited by msquared; 06-30-2012 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:48 AM
Devioretp Devioretp is offline
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It’s really great posts.
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Last edited by Devioretp; 08-27-2014 at 04:22 AM.
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